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Heres the pie that put you through school

Weekend!Food: Restaurant of the Week
by: ©2006 DAVID PLECHL, At Eddie’s Flat Iron Pizza, a perfect circle of Canadian bacon, mushroom, Italian sausage, cheese and dough gets ready to fly out the door. And it goes the old-fashioned way: by takeout or delivery.

At this time of year, in this town especially, flocks of foodies are scouring the farmers markets and specialty stores, uncovering the last gasps of the harvest bounty before the fields settle in for a long winter's nap.

But instead of fresh pumpkin soufflé and quail flavored with persimmon and pomegranate, I'm craving greasy, heavy 2 a.m. college dorm feasts, where the food is merely ballast for very important deliberations of the relative merits of Locke and Hegel.

Ordering hefty pizzas where the toppings can be as wild as you desire, and as thick as the crust, may be an anathema to many in Portland, besotted as they are by oh so many delicate, gourmet creations of the paradoxical chichi pizzerias, where you have to cut them yourself or order only from a preordained menu.

But if in the mood for college food, sports-on-TV watching food or just an easy quick dinner you know everyone will eat without complaining, Eddie's Flat Iron pizza can fill the bill (though it's delivery and takeout only, and they cover an area in Northeast and North Portland).

First of all, the people who take your order are unbelievably friendly and easy to deal with; sometimes they even call after your meal to check how you liked it.

The pizzas come with either thin or thick crust - I like the thick better for its heft - with a monumental range of toppings and combinations. You can make up your own or try one of their design.

If you like that baked artichoke dip that's the new hummus at potlucks, you'll enjoy the chicken artichoke pie with a white garlic sauce. Ma's Favorite has a spicy sauce (available on any pie by request) with a mound of sausage, mushrooms, onions and olives.

People who really like toppings can try The Works - every single topping piled on (never fear: there's no prosciutto or arugula in sight). The four cheese has mozzarella, cheddar, feta and Parmesan; the Big Jerry involves five meats including 'breakfast bacon.'

The pies arrive cut winningly in a crosshatch pattern, making for smaller pieces that are easier to eat.

If for some reason you're not in the mood for pizza, the menu is surprisingly large and diverse. There are chicken wings, baked sandwiches, toasted breads with different toppings (oozing pesto mozzarella is appropriately gooey and decadent) and calzones (basically pizzas flipped over on themselves like omelets).

Better yet they'll deliver Breyer's ice cream, two-liter bottles of soda and warm cobbler.

You will have to supply your own copy of 'The Science of Logic.'

- Audrey Van Buskirk

1218 N. Killingsworth St., 503-289-4700, www.eddiesflatironpizza.com, open daily 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., $7.95-$19 (pizzas)