Name: Suzie O'Connell's Market

Address: 3039 S.E. Stark St.

Owner: Young Moon

Around since: The 1920s; Moon has owned it for six years.

Defining feature: The cluttered, cardboard box-filled aisles, one of which Moon dubs 'a sobriety test.'

Defining candy: Pop Rocks

Selected beer: $57 Chimay Grand Reserve Ale,

6.5 pints

Niche: Beer, beer and beer. Moon stocks 420 imports and obscure Oregon microbrews.

Owner quote: 'I actually don't drink that much beer.'

Name: Eastmoreland Grocery & Market

Address: 3616 S.E. Knapp St.

Owner: Carol and Gary Christensen

Around since: The early 1920s; the Christensens have owned it for 20 years, buying it from Gary's parents, who owned it for 18 years.

Defining candy: Nerds Ropes

Sample produce: New Mexico chili pods, avocados

Oddest product: Minky, a 7-foot-tall teddy bear that goes for $399. 'We've sold a couple,' Carol Christensen says.

Owner quote: 'Whenever anything's happening, like neighborhood garage sales, we know about it here' (Carol Christensen).

Name: Taylor Court Grocery

Address: 1135 S.E. 80th Ave.

Owners: Errol Carlson and Mel Hafsos

Around since: 1928; Carlson and Hafsos bought it seven years ago.

Defining features: A large bric-a-brac selection that sits above fresh produce cooler; a walk-in beer cooler; private-label preserves and candy.

Defining candy: Taylor Court Grocery Chocolate River Rocks

Oddest product: Pig ears, for the many dogs that stop by on their way to walks at Mount Tabor.

Name: Alberta Street Market 380 5481

Address: 915 N.E. Alberta St.

Owner: Jack Chung

Around since: 1960; Chung has owned it for 17 years.

Defining feature: Chicken; some 1,000 pounds of it is sold each week.

Defining candy: Crybabies Extra Sour

Selected beer (or lack thereof): A 1970s-era sign above the cooler reads 'Old Milwaukee, Schlitz, Heidelberg, Colt 45.' Alberta Street carries plenty of beer but none of those brands.

Owner quote: 'We have to change because the neighborhood has changed so much in the last couple of years. But we'll still be the hottest chicken wing spot in the state of Oregon.'

Name: Neighbors Market

Address: 9061 N.E. Sandy Blvd.

Owner: Tom Shin

Around since: 1963; Shin has owned it for two years.

Defining feature: Shin knows the name of nearly everyone who enters the market.

Defining candy: Gold Dragon, Pink Owl and El Bubble Ñ the finest bubble gum cigars on the market.

Selected beer: Steel Reserve, 24 ounces, $1

Owner quote: 'I try to memorize all my customers' names. I'm really sorry when I can't.' (As he speaks, a customer enters. 'Hi, Lee!' Shin shouts.)