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You scream, I scream, we all scream for ice cream

Salt & Straw ice cream now available every day in LO


When the Lake Oswego Farmers’ Market opened mid-May, there was a vendor absent whom many customers were anxious to see make a local presence: Salt & Straw ice cream.

The good news is the wait is over. Salt & Straw opened a cart on Tuesday in a corner of the Wizer’s Shopping Center lot overlooking Millennium Plaza Park. The great news is that the cart will be open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. So, friends, you won’t have to drive to Northeast Alberta Street or Northwest 23rd Avenue in Portland to get fresh-made Salt & Straw ice creams.

The founding of Salt & Straw is one of part luck, part strategy and part love of ice cream, family and local foods. Kim Malek had been wanting to open a scoop shop since 1996; she dreamed of having a spot where you could run into your neighbors, celebrate with your family or reward yourself. She loved exploring fun new flavors and, as luck would have it, moved back to Portland from elsewhere and found a window of opportunity and support to jump-start her idea.

In the meantime her cousin Tyler Malek had been studying in China and traveling in Asia. He completed his business degree and then announced he was enrolling in culinary school.

“He had a million ideas and wanted to join me in this crazy idea. How could I resist?” Kim said on the Salt & Straw website. “He literally dropped what he was doing, loaded up his car and drove to Portland from Seattle to start work as our head ice cream maker the very next day. I would probably be somewhere rocking back and forth in a corner without him. He’s amazingly talented, super smart, hardworking and quite possibly the nicest person ever.”by: VERN UYETAKE - A Salt & Straw cart opened this week in the Wizers Shopping Center parking lot overlooking Millenium Plaza Park. It will be open daily from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The story continues with Kim cashing in her 401K, signing a lease, creating a custom push cart and spending days and days creating ice cream recipes, which the Maleks now share with us.

According to Saltandstraw.com, what makes Salt and Straw the most delicious ice cream is that it’s “handmade in small batches using only all-natural dairy and the best local, sustainable and organic ingredients Oregon has to offer as well as handpicked farms and producers around the world.” They use cream from Lochmead Dairy in Eugene, where the company’s cows were all born right on their third-generation family farm. The ice cream is made with 17 percent butterfat, very little air in the churning process and has a low sweetness level so you really taste the flavor combinations.

These are the flavors Salt & Straw will offer at the Lake Oswego cart:

Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbon — developed with salt expert Mark Bitterman of Portland’s The Meadow. The ice cream is made with The Meadow’s fleur de sel and ribboned with hand-burned caramel.

Almond Brittle with Salted Ganache — Kim and Tyler took Grandma Malek’s almond brittle recipe to the next level with their own housemade, perfectly salted chocolaty ganache.

Cinnamon Snickerdoodle — Red Ape Cinnamon from Eugene donates part of the proceeds of this ice cream to saving orangutans in Sumatra, where this cinnamon is harvested.

Stumptown Coffee with Burnside Bourbon — Stumptown’s single origin Sumatra coffee is mixed with a little of Portland’s Holy Kakow chocolate and a lot of Burnside Bourbon from Eastside Distillery.

Arbequina Olive Oil — Made with Red Ridge Farms’ spicy Arbequina olive oil, this is one of Oprah Winfrey’s “Favorite Things.” Evidently after tasting more than 50 ice creams from all over the country, the folks at The Oprah Magazine told S&S “this one blew them away.”

Freckled Woodblock Chocolate — Using an old-school technique called freckling this ice cream features Woodblock roasted cocoa beans and Jacobsen sea salt. Delicious!

We at the Lake Oswego Review and West Linn Tidings office got to sample the ice creams that will be offered at the Lake Oswego cart. We loved them all, particularly Chocolate with Gooey Brownie, Sea Salt with Caramel Ribbon and Almond Brittle with Salted Ganache. I’d have to vote for the Stumptown Coffee with Burnside Bourbon, but you really must try the Arbequina Olive Oil — it really will blow you away. The flavors will change over the summer. To view the whole menu of flavors, visit saltandstraw.com or visit their storefronts located at 2035 NE Alberta St. and 838 NW 23rd Ave. in Portland.

Make a point of introducing yourself to the folks at Salt and Straw. Hopefully they are the first of many food carts coming to our area.

Homemade ice cream sandwiches are a Randall family favorite dessert. We like to make them from snickerdoodles, but this ginger cookie would go nicely with any of the flavors available at the Salt & Straw’s cart in Lake Oswego.

Bon appetit! Eat something wonderful!

Ice Cream and Ginger Molasses Cookie Sandwiches

Makes 6 sandwiches

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1/4 cup vegetable shortening, room temperature

1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar

1 egg

1/4 cup unsulfured (light) molasses

1 tablespoon grated orange peel

Sugar

1 pint ice cream, softened slightly

For cookies:

Sift first 6 ingredients into medium bowl. Combine butter, shortening and brown sugar in large bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter mixture until fluffy. Add egg, molasses and peel; beat until blended. Add dry ingredients; mix just until incorporated. Cover; chill 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 2 baking sheets. Place sugar in small bowl. Using wet hands, form dough into 12 equal pieces; shape pieces into balls. Roll in sugar to coat. Transfer to prepared sheets, spacing 2 1/2 inches apart. Bake until cookies are pale golden and cracked on top but still soft, about 15 minutes. Cool on sheets 1 minute. Transfer to racks; cool completely.

For sandwiches:

Remove ice cream from freezer and allow to soften slightly so it is easy to scoop and spread onto cookies. Place 6 cookies on work surface, flat side up. Top each with 1/3 cup ice cream. Spread to 1/4 inch from edge of cookies. Top each with second cookie. Press to adhere. Wrap in waxed paper and place in freezer. Freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Wrap tightly; keep frozen.) Adapted from Bon Appetit, March 1996.

Randall welcomes your food questions and research suggestions. She can be reached at 503-636-1281, ext. 100, or by email at brandall@lakeoswegoreview.com.

25 of 52 Sunday Dinners

Every now and again you have to bend the rules, and this take on dinner definitely does that. This was a creative meal my dad used to serve my brothers, sisters and me when he was left in charge for an evening. He rationalized that ice cream was a dairy product and fruit was definitely healthy. We all concurred down to the last lick of the bowl.

— BR

Summer Ice Cream Dinner

You will need:

French vanilla ice cream, either homemade or soft serve from an ice cream shop such as Dairy Queen

Fruit salad made of the best summer fruits you can find: peaches, berries, melons, cherries, etc.

Cut the fruit into bite-size pieces and toss in a large bowl.

Scoop ice cream into bowls and top with fruit salad. Dig in!

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