Striking and sumptuous, outfitted with ceiling-to-floor drapery and a puckered wall inlaid with mirrors, Bluehour has understated razzle-dazzle down to a T.

A cosmopolitan It Girl among more than a few earnest, less-worldly lasses, Bluehour stands out first, for its glittering scene, second, for the fine food of chef Kenny Giambalvo.

The long list of starters, compared with just a half-dozen entrees, is everyone's favorite part of the menu. Gnocchi are velvety, cheesy cushions with a salty kick and hint of black truffle. Made-to-order risotto, recently touting cuttlefish braised in squid ink, takes longer to prepare than most appetizers, but the first bite confirms that it's worth the wait. Seared sea scallops cosseted by strips of bacon are a heady treat. And the elegant Caesar salad, composed of full, slender romaine leaves, always satisfies.

Intriguing ingredients unexpectedly pop up all over the menu. Watercress and a sweet onion salad lend perkiness to grilled hanger steak while grapefruit and leeks accompany excellent seared foie gras. Even desserts, such as chocolate caramel tart spiked with fleur de sel, take a walk on the wildish side.

Ñ Christina Melander

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